The turn of the 20th century saw fine, delicate designs often featuring Diamonds.
Lasting only nine years, the Edwardian period is often forgotten amongst the Art Deco and Art Nouveau eras. Often referred to as the “Gilded Age”, the Edwardian period takes its name from the rule of King Edward VII, reigning from 1901 to just 1910; however the term ‘Edwardian Era’ is often extended beyond Edward’s death to the beginning of world war I in 1914, or its end in 1918.
When Edward VII began his reign, Britain was still very much engrained in the Art Nouveau movement.
The class system was still very evident from Victorian times, but rapid economic changes were taking place in order to push social change. People were becoming interested for the first time in the lives of the poor, women’s rights and socialism. Although the country was changing, there was still a big divide between the lower and the ‘ruling’ classes. It was not until the outbreak of WWI that the previous century’s ideas, ethics and ideologies were finally put to rest.
During the Edwardian years, more jewellery was bought than ever before. Like so many other periods, Edwardian style and fashion overlapped with its predecessors. But when WWI broke out, people panicked. Jewellery was locked away in vaults, and much was sold to make money in order for the owner to survive.
Designs gradually started to change from the rich boldness of Nouveau to become more understated. Edward’s reign was seen as elegant and sophisticated, and this was reflected in the jewellery of the period. Diamonds, a quintessential part of Edwardian jewellery, were cut into fine and delicate shapes, designed to blend in with the fragility of the lace, silk and feathers worn by Edwardian women. Many believe that Edwardian jewellery is amongst some of the finest ever fashioned. The Edwardian period’s innovation is highlighted through the vast progress made in the cutting and shaping of gemstones. Many cuts and shapes created in this era were later developed and used extensively during the Art Deco movement.
Platinum was very popular and was often used to showcase the brilliance, fire and lustre of many gemstones. The metal was often ‘scalloped’ or had lightly engraved patterns said to resemble lace. Artisans (jewellery makers) experimented and pushed the Platinum foundries to see how it could be forged, and the result was extremely thin and light pieces of jewellery.
Another defining feature of the period was a type of setting known as ‘milgrain’. It was carried out by creating a thin rim of metal, textured with tiny grains that secured the gemstone in place. This created the effect of an invisible setting, as very little metal was used to hold the gemstone in place.
A white on white colour scheme became popular, as Diamonds and Pearls were set in Platinum, creating a refined, elegant look. Elegant, lacy circle brooches, bar pins, stars and crescents became fashionable. A particular favourite was the ‘negligee’, a pendant that had two drops of unequal length hanging from a chain or stone.
During the Edwardian period, Princess Victoria of Wales, Princess Louise the Princess Royal and the King’s wife Queen Alexandra all had a fundamental influence upon fashion and the creation of jewellery.
Today, people like to copy the fashions of the rich and famous, and the Edwardian period was no different. When the King and Queen travelled to India, Queen Alexandra was fascinated by the style and fashions of her Indian counterparts, known as Maharajas. She subsequently bought and adopted some of the styles she was fond of, bringing them back to England. Her influence started fashions for Diamond ornaments, known as ‘aigrettes’, Pearl necklaces with tassels, known as ‘sautoirs’, and the most memorable to many; chokers.
Amethyst was a favourite stone of the Queen, and because of her influence, it was common to see it used in jewellery at the time. Violet Amethyst was often used in partnership with Prasiolite (Green Amethyst) or Peridot and Pearl. This combination of stones formed the same colours as the ones used to represent the women’s rights, or ‘suffragette’ movement. The first letter of each colour, G, W and V (Green, White and Violet) stood for ‘Give Women the Vote’, and was popular for supporters to wear at the time.
As in any period, not everyone is able to afford the high-end jewellery being worn by kings and queens. The Edwardian period was no different: because of this, less expensive items were also being designed. Half hoop bangles, bar brooches, gypsy rings, snake rings and gold chain bracelets set with pearls became popular amid the working classes. Although most of this jewellery was actually made in the late Victorian period, it is still acknowledged as Edwardian.
Unfortunately, only four years after Edward passed away, World War I broke out. The lavish and proud displays of prosperity that had become such a part of Edwardian society were brought to an untimely end.
